What is a Hybrid Vehicle (HV)?

A hybrid vehicle (HV) is a vehicle that uses two or more fuel sources like:

-An on-board rechargeable energy storage system (RESS) and a fueled power source for vehicle force

-Human powered bicycle with battery assist

-A sail boat with electric energy

-The term most commonly refers to Hybrid-electric vehicle (HEV) which includes internal ignition engines and electric motors (generally sourced by electric batteries or other rechargeable energy storage system (RESS).

HV History

One of the original hybrid vehicles were simply boats with both sails and oars, like the Greek Trireme Warships. These used a sail for traveling with the wind, and the oars for when there was insufficient wind, or in circumstances that the sail was unfavorable (such as naval combat, in the case of the triremes).

Hybrid forms by engines

Hybrid Electric Petroleum Vehicles (HEPV)

When the term hybrid vehicle is used, it most often refers to a Hybrid electric vehicle. These encompass such vehicles as the Toyota Prius, Toyota Camry Hybrid, Ford Escape Hybrid, Honda Insight and others. A petroleum-electric hybrid most commonly uses internal combustion engines (generally gasoline or Diesel engines, powered by a variety of fuels) and electric batteries to power electric motors. There are many types of petroleum-electric hybrid drivetrains from Full hybrid to Mild hybrid which offer varying advantages and disadvantages

Hybrid Fuel (dual mode)

In addition to vehicles that use two or more different tactics for force, some also consider vehicles that use separate energy input types (“fuels”) using the same tank and engine to be hybrids, although to avoid misunderstanding with hybrids as described above and to use correctly the terms, these are depicted as dual mode vehicles;

Some electric trolley/buses can switch between an on board diesel engine and overhead electrical power depending on conditions.

Elastic-fuel vehicles can use a mixture of put in fuels (petroleum and biofuels) in one tank, classically gasoline and bioethanol or biobutanol, though biodiesel vehicles would also qualify. Liquefied Petroleum Gas (LPG) and Compressed Natural Gas (CNG) are very different from each other and cannot be used in the same tanks, so it would be impossible to build an (LPG - CNG) flexible fuel system.

Some vehicles have been modified to use another fuel source if it is available, such as cars modified to run on LPG and Diesels or CNG and Petrol.

Power aid devices for bicycles and other human sourced vehicles are also included.

Plug-in hybrid electric vehicles (PHEV) is an up-and-coming type of automobile which can use traditional liquid combustibles and electricity as fuels. Such vehicles could reduce fossil fuel consumption, pollution, and operating costs. If equipped with vehicle to grid technology they could also help stabilize the electric grid by acting as load balance devices. By reducing the amount of liquid fuel required they could also help biofuels meet a larger portion of our fuel demands.

Continuously Recharged Battery Electric Vehicle (CRBEV)

Say in perfect conditions, CRBEVs can be recharged while the user drives. The CRBEV starts contact with an electrified rail, plate or overhead wires on the highway via an attached conducting wheel or other similar mechanism. The CRBEV’s batteries are recharged by this process on the highway and can then be used normally on other roads.

Advantages of Frequent Car Washing

Sense Superior

Washing your car every day is just like taking a shower every day - you just sense superior afterward.

Save Time

If you wash your car every day; the average time to have your vehicle completely clean and waxed is 6 - 9 minutes.

Shield Your Asset

A good finish on your vehicle means a higher resale value.

Ownership Dignity

Your car looks better clean rather than dirty, and you have to take care of your car.

Preventative Protection

All vehicles, regardless of the finish (clear coat, acrylic, enamel, etc.) require regular washing throughout the year, just like a good maintenance program prolongs the life and performance of your car.

Time Factor

Time is a contributing factor that can harm your car's exterior. The longer an attacking substance is on the vehicle, the greater the probability and extent of damage.

Acid Rain

Emissions from chemical plants, fossil fuels, power plants and the internal combustion engine are transported and altered in our atmosphere. When deposited onto your cars’ surface in either a wet or dry state, they become sulfuric or nitric acids which, if left on the surface, can eat the paint.

High Temperature Damages

High temperature accelerates problems. The acids in bugs, bird droppings, tree sap and leaves becomes more vigorous through heat. Metal retains this heat and enhances the changes of permanent stains.

Sun Burns

Sunlight exposure, with its ultraviolet rays, accelerates the aging process and diminishes the gloss on your finish. Protective coatings and sealants are necessary to provide a protective barrier while enhancing your exterior's gloss and shine.

Harmful Salt

Sea and road salt cause a chemical reaction that can accelerate the pitting and rusting of your car's surface. The undercarriage is especially prone to this damage due to many out-of-sight areas where salt can lodge.

Clean Wheels

Road dust and brake dust cling to wheels and hubcaps. If not removed, they can actually permeate the metal, causing major damage.

How to Drive

There are numerous stuffs that need you to drive, such as a normal car, a racing car, a tractor, a truck, a bus or a motor boat. All possibly will involve a different driving method, but each of them requires obtaining driving lessons, of some kind. Driving is not just getting into an automobile and getting off. There are a lot of safety measures that have to applied and discovered.

Steps

Get a driver's or learner's permit, if your state requires one.

Find a reputable drivers school and take driving lessons.

Study the driving rules in the book that you received when you signed up for the permit. If you do not learn the rules, and how to use them, you cannot get your license.

Practice with someone on a daily basis. It could be a friend, or a relative. Make sure that they have excellent driving knowledge, and that they have the patience to be sitting beside you, while you learn.

Watch others while they drive and ask questions. While there is no substitute for firsthand practice, this can be a good opportunity to review rules and techniques.

Apply for your driving test, after the required amount of lessons. The test involves, usually, depending on the state, a written test as well as a driving test.

Pass both tests, and you will be permitted to drive.

Tips

If possible, try to sign up for grassroots motorsports events to practice car control. Autocross is an especially useful event to participate in, as it provides a safe environment for you to learn car control at relatively low speeds. Active safety is also an important step to being a good driver.

Most people find it easier to start with a vehicle that has an automatic transmission. This will get you out on the road faster, but learning to drive manual is a very valuable skill, even though it has a steeper learning curve.

A copy of your state's "rules of the road" can be gotten from any Department of Licensing office. You may also be able to find one online.

Always remember what you have learned in driving school. As soon as you get into the car, even before putting the key into the ignition, put on your seat belt.

Adjust your mirrors, both side and top to make sure you have a good view of the cars on either side and behind you.

Always use your hand signals, or car turn signals. Remember that the person in the car behind you cannot read your mind. They don't know which direction you are going to move unless you signal.

If you're completely new behind the wheel, find someplace safe to get a feel for controlling a car the first time. Start on a slow back road or large, empty parking lot, out of traffic.

If you fail the driving test, try a different licensing office next time. Some of them are tougher graders than others.

Warnings

Always drive at least a car length behind the car in front of you. If you have to make a fast stop, you do not want to crash into the front car. When going fast, mainly 60 mph or more, you will need even more than one car length in order to come safely to a stop, so understand and observe the two-second rule, as outlined in the Wikipedia link below. Take weather and road conditions into account.

Know your vehicle; how long it takes to stop, the responsiveness of the steering wheel, etc.

Use caution when driving. Do not speed, nor drive too slowly.

NEVER drink While and before driving.

NEVER drive if you are very tired.

ALWAYS wear a seatbelt!

Try not to stop suddenly unless its an emergency. This is especially true of higher end vehicles such as sports cars, as they have brakes that vehicles behind you can barely match in stopping power. Sudden stops can lead to vehicles behind you ploughing into your rear.

Note: This article can only guide you on your way to driving so don't depend on it as your only source.

How to Drive a Car

There are various kinds of automobile that you can learn how to drive, however, there are certain steps that you have to keep it in your mind when driving a normal car.

Prepare your self for the experience! Riding with you is a matter of life or death.

Keep the car in good working order before you drive it. Checking everything every once in a while is a good idea.

Have insurance and the paper to prove it.

Make sure somewhere in your checklist when you exit the vehicle that you turn off the lights.

Have your license with you.

Avoid parking illegally, your car may be towed, or you may be cited and have to pay a fine.

Be courteous to the others on the road.

Don't run red lights.

Carry cash for toll booths and tips for parking attendants.

Be safe and follow all the posted and implied laws while driving.

Learn to drive. It might be a good idea to take professional lessons from a driving institute. However, if this is not possible, enlist the aid of your staffer who is a careful driver and has been driving for a while.

Be alert. Check the rear view and side mirrors; make sure you can see all traffic and pedestrians behind you and in front of you. Make it a habit to know that you have mirrors and use them every few seconds while driving.

Watch out for bigger vehicles like trucks, buses, semis, and SUVs that charge the road. Sometimes people with big cars drive like bullies, and you need to understand that if your car comes head to head with them, your car will lose.

Tips

If your car is equipped with ABS, you must press the brake as hard as you can in emergency stop. This will activate ABS and bring your car to a complete stop in the shortest distance while allowing you to retain control over your car. Do not 'pump' the brake nor loosen the force applied to the pedal no matter what. While ABS is active, you may feel vibration through the brake pedal but this is expected and completely normal. Just continue pressing the brake as hard as possible until your car stops.

Take it easy. Slow down, put on some relaxing music and just cruise. You may be surprised how much less stress is involved in driving if you eliminate the need to hurry. Give yourself extra time and learn to enjoy driving.

Wear your seat belt: your face will thank you later.

Practice makes perfect.


Warnings

Always follow the rules of the road valid for your state or country. Make sure you know all the rules before starting to drive, or else you or your car might be badly damaged.

Remember, if your car is equipped with ABS, never pump your brake. Just brake as hard as you can.

Be aware of any limitations of provisional licenses, for example in the UK you cannot drive on a motorway without a full license.

Make sure you practice uphill starts when learning to operate a manual transmission. Because starting a manual transmission from a stop requires letting off the brakes and engaging the clutch (essentially placing the car in neutral), the car will roll backwards until first gear is engaged. To stop this from happening, apply the hand/parking brake, then release it as you release the clutch and the car begins to move forward. Otherwise, you risk rolling into the car behind you. Practice this technique on a sloped driveway or parking lot where it's safe to make mistakes.

In some cities, shifting late (just before red-lining) not only makes you sound like a maniac, it can also be considered "reckless driving", which is illegal and can get you a nasty ticket/fine.

Never shift into low gears at high speeds (i.e. 1st gear at 50mph). This will greatly damage or destroy your cars engine and transmission.

This is by no means a replacement to going to drivers ed.!

Street racing is dangerous, and illegal in most countries, so don't act stupid!
Always wear a seatbelt!

Always use your turn signal, and use low beam headlights when there is an approaching vehicle or when there is a vehicle in front of your vehicle.
Make sure you're in the CORRECT lane while driving.

DO NOT drink and drive. You could kill yourself or someone else.

Note: This article can only guide you on your way to driving so don't depend on it as your only source.

Driving More Efficiently

Practicing the following fuel efficient driving techniques can improve fuel economy more than 10%:

Observing the Speed Limit

In highway driving, over 50% of the energy required to move your car down the road goes to overcoming aerodynamic drag (pushing air out of the way). As you drive faster, aerodynamic drag and rolling resistance increase. As a result, at speeds above 55 mph, fuel economy decreases rapidly.

By driving 65 mph instead of 70 mph , you'll save gas. Of course it will take you longer to get to your destination, but for each extra hour you spend driving you'll save $5.00. Owners of larger trucks and sport utility vehicles may save as much as $10.00 for each extra hour spent driving.

Staying within the speed limit is not only a matter of safety and obeying the law, it can also save you money!

Over-drive Gears

Over-drive gears improve the fuel economy of your car during highway driving. When you use over-drive gearing your car's engine speed decreases. This reduces both fuel consumption and engine wear.

Using Cruise Control

Using cruise control on highway trips can help you maintain a constant speed and, in most cases, will reduce your fuel consumption.

Anticipating Traffic Situations

In city driving, nearly 50% of the energy needed to power your car goes to acceleration. Unnecessary braking wastes that energy.

Avoid extreme acceleration except in emergency situations. Hard acceleration causes your engine to enter a less efficient "fuel enrichment mode" of operation.

If you anticipate traffic conditions ahead of you and don't tailgate, you can avoid unnecessary braking and acceleration, and improve your fuel economy by 5-10 %. This defensive driving strategy is not only safer, it will also reduce wear on your tires and brakes and save you money.

Avoiding Unnecessary Idling

Warming up your car isn't necessary for most cars today. No matter how efficient your car is, unnecessary idling wastes fuel, costs you money, and pollutes the air.

Keep Your Tires Properly Inflated

Your tires are designed to operate at peak efficiency only when they are inflated to the proper air pressure. You can read the maximum inflated tire pressure on the sidewall of the tire. By adhering to these recommendations your car will not only get better tire wear, but you will get better fuel mileage because you'll have less rolling resistance.

How To Calculate Your Vehicle's MPG - Miles-Per-Gallon?

I was asked by one of my blog visitors what the formula is for calculating how many miles-per-gallon she was getting on her car. Then it hit me that while I've been calculating my own cars' MPG for years it never dawned on me that some people didn't know how to do this.

So here's how to calculate your own car's MPG:

1. Fill up your fuel tank and write down the odometer reading from your speedometer.

2. Drive the car until you need to fill the tank again. Let it go down to about 1/4 of a tank or less.

3. Fill the tank again and record the odometer reading and the number of gallons it took to fill it. Be precise; record the gallons exactly including the portion of a gallon usually represented by a decimal in hundreds of a gallon. For example 15.78 gallons.

4. Subtract the previous odometer reading from the new one to determine how may miles you have driven between fill-ups.

5. Now simply divide the miles traveled by the number of gallons used. This will tell you how many miles-per-gallon you are getting.

6. For example let's say you went 356 miles between fill-ups, and it took 15.78 gallons to fill the tank. Well, 356 miles divided by 15.78 gallons equals 22.56. So you got 22.56 miles-per-gallon on that last tank of gas.

7. Check your miles-per-gallon over four or five fill-ups to get a good cross section of different driving conditions such as city, highway and so forth. Then take all your calculations and average them out (add them together and divide by the number of calculations) to get an overall picture of your gas mileage.

Driving - Understeer

When you reach the limits of grip on a corner, two scenarios can result known as understeer or oversteer.

Understeer – An overview

Understeer occurs when traction is lost at the front wheels while cornering, forcing you wide on a bend despite applying the correct steering angle (Figure 1). When viewed by an observer, this action looks as if the driver has applied insufficient steering lock (or under steered). If you're car is understeering, you're scrubbing off speed and missing the optimum line, so it's not a quick way to take a bend!

Figure: Understeer

Despite applying a corrective steering angle, the car continues on a wider line towards the outside of the bend.

Understeer is most likely to result from the following scenarios (which are more difficult to correct as you move down the list):

1. Accelerating into a bend
2. Braking into a corner
3. Ploughing into a corner too fast
4. Low traction conditions on the corner such as ice or oil

Having lost traction, understeer is actually a fairly stable state for the car to be in, and thus many manufacturers 'engineer in' this behaviour.

Understeer – factors at work

Passive factors involved

- Weight distribution
- Drive layout

Active factors involved

- Cornering speed
- Throttle
- Braking
- Steering inputs
- Weight transfer

Symptoms of understeer

- Light steering
- Drifting towards the outside of a bend
- Possible tyre noise from the front wheels

Correcting understeer

To correct any form of traction loss, you need to consider why you've exceeded the limits of grip….

1. Accelerating into a bend

Picture the scene, you're on a roundabout about to take the third exit but you think it might be a laugh to go round again. You keep accelerating through the bend and find that the car has a tendency to run wide. The available grip at the front wheels is being used in equal amounts to accelerate and to steer. As you accelerate more, you have less grip to steer – simple. So, reducing either of these inputs will correct the understeer.

This is the easiest form of understeer to correct, and a slight, smooth reduction in power will free up more grip (with the added benefit of a forward weight transfer), and a small corrective input to the steering will get you back on line.

2. Braking into a corner

When you apply the brakes, most of the braking effort is exerted on the front wheels. So if you're braking into the corner you're using most of your available grip trying to scrub off speed. If you then exert some steering lock, the addition of these lateral forces on the tyre can cause the limits of grip to be exceeded. So, correcting understeer seems simple - stop trying to turn the corner (a better plan might be to get your braking out of the way while you're in a straight line). However, if you happen to be in the middle of a bend as your car starts to understeer, continuing straight on might not seem like the best plan. An alternative strategy could be to reduce your braking effort, freeing up more grip for steering and hopefully allowing you to take the bend successfully.

3. Ploughing into a corner too fast

If you have attempted to take a corner too fast, have turned the steering wheel, and find yourself running wide, you my friend are in a spot of bother. But before you close your eyes and hope for the best, all may not be lost. You've exceeded all of the available grip, yes, but it may be possible to actually increase the level of grip by the slightest, smoothest dab on the brakes. "The brakes?!", I hear you shout, "but surely that is adding to the demands of the tyres, not reducing them?". This is very true, but if you're not totally out of control by pressing the brakes you're causing the weight to transfer to the front, and thus artificially increasing the levels of adhesion at the wheels. This may, however, not work. The moral is to enter the corner at a slower speed, then get on the power early on the way out.

4. Low traction conditions

If you've entered a corner at speed and notice a sudden reduction in traction due to oil, black ice or a banana skin, the best course of action (in the immortal words of Douglas Adams) is to consider how lucky you are that life has been kind to you so far.

If life hasn't been kind to you, consider how lucky you are that it won't be bothering you much longer.

Alternatively, be careful, think about the conditions and adjust your entry speed accordingly.

Avoiding understeer – rules

- Be smooth
- Don't enter the corner too fast
- Don't brake (hard) into the corner unless you are using trail braking

Trail braking

In some situations on the track, it may be possible to get a better time by leaving your braking to the very last minute, forcing you to maintain braking into the turn. If this is the case, ensure most of the braking effort has been carried out in a straight line, and progressively release the brakes as you approach the apex. The resulting forward weight transfer can reduce understeer and improve 'turn in', however, it can also make the car more prone to oversteer.

Simple modifications to make a car less prone to understeer

If you have a track car and find understeer a problem, you can complete some relatively easy modifications which can make the handling more neutral. These include:

- Reducing the front tyre pressure
- Softening front springs or anti-roll bar
- Use softer front tyres
- Increase front down force (if aerodynamics fitted)

Note: Always stick to the manufacturers recommended limits when altering tyre pressures, and never modifiy a road car.

Heel and Toe Shifting

Heel and toe is the art of changing down a gear and rev matching while braking. By combining the braking and gear change when approaching a corner instead of performing them as two separate actions you'll be faster in any driving discipline - an essential skill to master. Note: When approaching a corner, remember to select a gear which will allow you to exit the corner quickly.

How do I do it?

This technique s is possible by turning your right foot inwards, using your toes to operate the brakes and your heel you increase the throttle. Although this sounds complicated, it's actually a relatively easy technique to master with a bit of practice. The technique is vital on the track, but will also make you a much smoother driver on the road.

Heel and toe – step by step:

As you approach the braking point, cover the brake pedal with the ball of your right foot. The brake is the priority of the two pedals, so ensure good contact and no risk of your foot slipping off. In some cars it is very difficult to heel and toe due to the pedal position. It's useful to wear racing boots or thin soled shoes to increaser your pedal feel and decrease chances of your foot sliding off the brake.

Apply the brake and reduce your speed to a point where it's possible to change down without over-revving the engine.

Now rotate your foot and prepare to press the accelerator with your heel.

In a fluid series of events, press the clutch, increase the engine speed using the throttle with the heel of your right foot. Now press the clutch and change down a gear.

Smoothly release the clutch.

Take the corner, and accelerate smoothly and prepare for the next bend.

Left foot braking

Left foot braking is a technique used frequently in rallying, but can be equally useful on the road or track for:

Reducing understeer into a corner
Reducing drive loss through spinning wheels
Removing the pedal transfer time between accelerator and brake

Reducing understeer into a corner

The theory here is that you can feather the brakes into a corner (trail braking), while transitioning to progressive throttle at the apex. This can lead to a very smooth transition between braking and acceleration and is less likely to unsettle the car through unwanted weight transfer. It also keeps the weight at the front of the vehicle for as long as possible, thus providing more grip, a better turn in and reduces the possibility of understeer.

Reducing drive loss through spinning wheels

This technique is particularly useful for a front wheel drive car without a limited slip differential. On the exit of the corner, it is a common symptom for one the unladen front wheel to spin while applying throttle. This spinning wheel is preventing all of the power from transferring to the road and thus slowing the exit speed. By feathering the brake with the left foot, this can prevent or reduce this wheelspin, and get a better exit.

Removing the pedal transfer time between accelerator and brake

Using the left foot to brake removes the pedal transition time from brake to accelerator and vice versa. This can shave fractions of a second off a lap time when done well, but cannot be used when it is necessary to change down a gear (unless you decide not to use the clutch!)

Common mistake when learning to left foot brake

Left foot braking is an advanced technique, and should only be attempted in anger after lots of practice. When learning to left foot brake, you'll initially press the pedal far too hard as you'll be used to the action of pressing a clutch all the way to the floor. It takes time to re-programme the muscle memory of your foot and leg, and a bit of empty tarmac is recommended.

The basics - control

Before learning how to drive a performance car on the limit, it's important to have a good grasp of car control. To master this art you need practice….in your own car….on a stretch of tarmac or track you know well. Alternatively book a track day or driving experience with a racing or rally instructor. Every car has different properties and behaves differently on the limit. It's a very rare talent to be able to jump into a new car and drive it well.

The key here is smoothness. A car driven by a smooth driver does not experience the rapid peaks of force which could be caused by, for example, rapid steering or braking inputs.

If you're driving a car through a corner at 99% of it's limit, a rapid stamp on the brakes will certainly cause you to lose control (ABS can't help you if you're going sideways!). In fact even a small press on the brakes, or even lifting off the throttle could unsettle the car enough to lose traction. This isn't the end of the world on a track, but not so fun on the road.

So, you can either drive the car at 70% leaving you room for nasty gear changes, or you can drive at 80% and concentrate on smooth steering, braking, acceleration and gear inputs, and still leaving room for error. Once you've mastered this art, you can progress to competitive racing speeds.

How to Properly Repair Paint Chips

The repair of a scratch and a chip are the same. A scratch is merely a chip on uni-directional steroids. The only problem with a scratch is that it takes more time to be able to blend in the new paint.

Items you need:

• Touchup or color matched paint

• Compatible primer - I like Wurth Rustop primer

• Organic cleaner - P21S Total Auto Wash or Wurth Citrus Degreaser

• Solvent - Rubbing Alcohol or Prepsol or Enamel Reducer

• 3M Imperial Hand Glaze

• Sanding Block 2000 grit

• Car wash

• 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper

• Round undyed wooden toothpicks

• Large lightweight cardboard boxes (large shoe box or bigger)

• Several 100% cotton towels

• New Pencils with unused erasers

• Rubber glue

• Several heavy clean plastic cups

• Roll of quality paint masking tape

Paint chip repair is a learned skill and should be practiced on an area of the car that is not that visible. The hood and nose are two areas that should be tackled last. Test all cleaners or solvents on the paint prior to usage. Try using the seam underneath the rocker panels. Apply a little cleaner or solvent to a cloth and rub the seam. If you do not get any color on the rag, then the cleaner/solvent should be safe for the paint. If you do get color on the rag, then you may wish to consider another solvent.

CHIP REPAIR STEPS:

1. At least 24 hours before you want to start, use the rubber glue to attach small 600 grit sandpaper circles (the diameter of the eraser) onto several new pencils. The eraser must be unused and flat on top.

2. Wash the car with a quality car wash and dry thoroughly.

3. Paint chips come in two flavors. The worst case has exposed the bare metal, while the less severe has left the original primer intact. Clean the area thoroughly with the P21S or Wurth Citrus degreaser. If there is rust on the exposed metal, clean off with the pencil eraser. Use a toothpick to gently probe the area and make sure that the edges of the chip are secure and not waiting to fall off and destroy your work. This is an optional step! If you do not feel comfortable with sanding or your paint is one of the new clear-coated finishes, you should jump to step number 5. Take a new pencil/sandpaper tool, dip into clean water and put a few drops of water on the chip area. *SLIGHTLY* rough up the chip and a small portion of the surrounding paint. Lightly turning the pencil will rough up an area the diameter of the eraser and this should be more than enough. Keep the roughed up area as small as possible, the object is to give the new paint approximately 1 mm of old paint to "grab" around the perimeter of the chip and not dig scratches.

4. Move onto the next chip and repeat the above. Depending upon the amount of time available, you may wish to tackle 10-20 chips at one time. Try to stay within the area that may be covered by your box(es).

5. When finished sanding all your chips you are tackling at this time apply a small amount of Alcohol or Prepsol or Enamel Reducer to a rag and wipe each chip and surrounding area to remove any sanding dust and grease/oils. Use additional solvent and new area of the rag for each chip. Allow to dry (these are highly volatile and will evaporate quickly with no residue).

6. If the original primer is intact, and "pencil sanding" does not disturb the primer, then skip the next step and go directly to painting (# 9)

7. Make sure that the chip and surrounding area is clean. If not, reclean with the Prepsol, Alcohol or Enamel Reducer. Pour or spray a small amount of primer into a clean plastic cup. Dip the point of a wooden toothpick into the primer to get a thin coating on the first 1-2 mm of the toothpick. If there is a blob on the end, gently scrape it back into the cup. Place the tip of the toothpick against the center of the chip and allow capillary action to literally flow a *THIN* coat of the primer into the depression of the chip. Move onto the next prepared chip. If you have finished priming all your prepared chips before two hours are up, cover with a box, taped down with masking tape and go have a beer. The key is to allow the first coat of primer to dry at least two hours. Dispose of your cup and start with a fresh cup and toothpick. Apply another thin coat of primer to each repair that needs primer. Priming is completed when no metal is visible and the level of the primer is *BELOW* the level of the surrounding paint. This is important! Cover and allow to dry for two hours or until dry.

8. Apply a small amount of Alcohol or Prepsol or Enamel Reducer to a rag and wipe the chip and surrounding area to remove any sanding dust and grease/oils. Allow to dry. Repeat for all the chips that are on today's list of victims.

9. If you are using a touchup, shake the bottle thoroughly. If you are using color-matched paint, mix thoroughly and pour a small amount into a clean plastic cup.

10. Dip the point of a new toothpick into the paint to get a thin coating on the first 1-2 mm of the toothpick. If there is a blob on the end, gently scrape it back into the bottle. Place the tip of the toothpick against the center of the chip and allow capillary action to literally flow the paint into the depression of the chip. Repeat for each chip. The key is not to use too much paint. Do not redip the toothpick. Use only the amount that will flow from one dip. Temptation to add more paint with each application will be almost overwhelming. Fight it!

11. Cover with your paint box and allow to dry 2 hours and repeat 8-12 times till the depression is filled with paint and bulges slightly upward and covers the roughed up area with a thin coating of paint. The first 2-3 coats may not completely hide the primer. This is fine because you have many more coats to go. Fight that urge!

12. The paint application is completed when the new paint bulges slightly upward (a fraction of a millimeter) and had covered the roughed up area with a thin coat of new paint. Allow the paint to dry for at least a week.

13. The touchup paint has been applied to the surface and allowed to dry for at least 1 week, and resembles a minute mound on the flat plane of the existing paint. The object is to remove the mound and make the surface of the paint one continuous flat plane. The Finesse Block offers the ability to gently remove only the high spot of the repair. Unlike sandpaper or polish on a rag, the five usable sides of the block are flat and act like a "wood plane" to remove only the elevated areas of the repair. The 2000 grit will not leave scratches.

14. Soak the Finesse Block in clean water for 24 hours prior to use. Put a small drop of car wash on the chip repair. This acts as a lubricant for the sanding block. Then gently "plane" the high spot on the paint. I prefer to "plane" in one direction (usually back to front - drawing the block towards me). If the block dries out, re-wet and continue use. When the new and existing paints are blended (smoothed to the flat plane) to your satisfaction, clean the area using a quality car wash and lots of water and then use a quality glaze to restore the high gloss finish. I prefer 3M Imperial Hand Glaze. Don't use a machine on your car, as it deserves to be caressed by hand. Use a machine on your Yugo or SO.

15. When applying either a glaze or a wax, apply to your soft cotton cloth or applicator pad (don't squirt the stuff on the car) and work in one direction only. Don't go around in circles like dear old dad. Circles are many times the cause of "swirl marks." A front-to-back, back-to-front motion (the way the air flows over the car) will help minimize swirl marks or at least make them less visible. Buff out with a soft cotton cloth. If it looks good, wax with a quality hard wax and you are done.

16. Tip for applying wax. If you are using a quality Carnauba based wax, try applying it with your fingers instead of a pad or cloth. Hold your fingers together and use your fingertips as an applicator pad. The tactile feedback from your fingers will tell you when the wax has been worked into the paint. If grit should lodge under your fingers, you will know immediately and not grind it into the paint. A pad will not allow this tactile feedback and these devil grits become sandpaper. A circular motion of the pad will make a 360-degree swirl mark. All marks on paint are most visible at a 90 degree viewing angle. Thus the front to back marks are most visible from the sides, whereas a circle stands out from any viewing angle.

Car check list before a long trip

A long trip is a serious exam for your car. Even a small problem such as a worn wiper, out-of-balance tire or improper alignment may turn your trip into a nightmare. Here, you can find simple tips on how to prepare your vehicle for a trip including illustrated checklist. However, this checklist does not include many other important items such as brakes and suspension components that may only be inspected by a mechanic in a garage. Book an appointment with your dealer or a mechanic well before your trip. Ask for one of those maintenance packages with an oil change, tire rotation and mechanical inspection. Don't leave it for a last moment, do it few days before your trip.

Check your car Owner's Manual

Have a look in your vehicle's owner's manual - It's the best source of useful information. From how to use overdrive when towing a trailer to how to change the tire and where is the jack located - it's all in there. Also you may find out the proper tire pressure and how to change a headlight bulb, where is the transmission dipstick located, and a lot more.

Check the Engine Oil

Many engine problems are initially caused by simply lack of oil changes. If your next oil change is due soon, definitely do it before a trip.To check the engine oil, place the car on a flat surface, warm up and stop the engine. Wait for a minute allowing the oil to pour down the oil pan. Locate the oil dipstick - usually it has some kind of bright color handle that indicates "ENGINE OIL". Pull the dipstick out, wipe it with a clean rug or a paper towel and insert it back fully. Pull it out again and check the level - it should be close to the "FULL" mark on the dipstick. If the oil appears too black - it definitely needs to be changed. If the level is low you can top it up using the same type of oil as you already have in the engine.

Automatic Transmission fluid

Long trip with a full load will be another exam for your automatic transmission. If your transmission fluid change due soon change it before a trip.How to check the transmission fluid: Warm up the car. Place the car on a level surface. Set the hand brake. With the shifter lever in Parking position and the engine idling [the procedure may vary on certain models, refer to the owner's manual] pull the automatic transmission fluid dipstick, wipe it and insert it back fully. Pull it again and check the fluid level and condition. Conventional transmission fluid has red or pinkish-red color when it's new. Over the time under high temperature and load the transmission fluid loses its qualities and oxidizes becoming more brownish. If it appears too dark it's better to change it, especially if you going to tow a trailer. If the trailer is very heavy, consider installing additional transmission fluid cooler.

Engine antifreeze (coolant)

Check the engine antifreeze (coolant) level in the overflow tank - it's visible from outside. The level should be between "Min" and "Max" marks. (Don't open the radiator cap when the engine is hot!) If the antifreeze level is well below the minimum, look for possible leaks. Any leaks should be fixed before a trip - lack of coolant on the road may cause engine to overheat which may cause serious damage. If it's lower just a bit, you can simply top it up using recommended for your car type of antifreeze mixed 50/50 with water.

Battery

Unfortunately, there is no way to tell when the battery will die - sometimes it happens unexpectedly with no prior signs. However, if you feel that cranking speed is slower than before, the battery is probably close to its end. Usually the new battery may last from 2 to 5 years so if your battery is 4 - 5 years old I'd just replace it before going to a trip. Check the battery condition visually. If you see any acid leaks, cracks or any other damage - replace the battery. Make sure the battery terminals are tight and not corroded. Corroded terminals will cause many troubles.

Other items to check under the hood

Look at the drive (serpentine) belt (in the picture), if it appears cracked or glazed, or has any other damage - replace it before a trip. Check the brake fluid, power steering fluid and make sure to top up the windshield washer reservoir with all-season windshield washer fluid. If you don't remember when last time you changed the air filter, change it now. Dirty air filter will cause lack of power and excessive fuel consumption. Look for anything irregular - leaks, loose clamps, kinked hoses, etc.

Check the tires

Check the tire pressure. Recommended pressure is indicated on the manufacturer's label, which usually located in the driver's door opening or in the glove box. Some German cars have this label in the backside of gas tank lid. You also can find it in the owner's manual. If you feel vibration at cruising speed - have your tires balanced. There is a safe limit of the tread wear. If the tire is worn below this limit, it's unsafe to drive. Refer to the result of mechanical inspection. Uneven tire wear indicates alignment problem.

Suspension and steering components

A steering and suspension of your car is something that you need to rely on in a long trip. Unfortunately, it only can be properly inspected in a repair shop. Here are just a few signs of possible problem: Having any vibration, irregular noise, knocking while driving over bumps? - Have your car inspected; there is definitely some problem.Look inside the wheel arch (look at the picture)- do all four struts (shock absorbers) appears dry? If any of them leaks oil - it should be replaced before a trip. Once it will be short on oil, the car will start bouncing like a boat and any road roughness can throw the car out of the road.Does the car "wander" from side to side at highway speed? The steering wheel is out of center? Does the car pull aside? - Check the wheel alignment. Improper wheel alignment may easily cause a car to skid at a high speed.
CV joint boots

All front wheel drive and many of four-wheel drive vehicles have CV joints (Constant Velocity joint) used to transfer the torque to the front wheels. The CV joint is greased inside and sealed by a rubber boot that unfortunately tends to break sometimes. Once it breaks, the grease comes out and the whole CV joint may become inoperative in a short period of time due to lack of lubrication. CV joint located on the internal side of each of the front wheels. You can check CV joint boots visually looking inside the front wheel arch from the front of the car with the wheel turned outside. The boot should be dry. If it's broken, you will see grease splashed all over the area. If the boot does broken, it needs to be replaced before a trip.

Lights and other electrical equipment

Check the horn, wipers and all the lights. A couple of spare bulbs (one for the headlight, one for the back) may be helpful. Replace the wipers if they don't clean the windshield perfectly. If you still have original wipers installed you may just replace wiper rubber refills which cost just a few bucks and may be purchased from a dealer. Check the windshield washer operation. Make sure your heater / air conditioner works properly. Have a broken or cracked rear view mirror? - Fix it before a trip.

Spare tire, wheel wrench and the jack

Check the spare tire pressure. If it's full-size (the same size as the others tires) spare, the pressure should be the same as in the other tires. If it's a small temporary use tire, the proper pressure is indicated on the sidewall of the tire; usually it's 50 - 60 psi. Check the owner's manual for exact data. If your car has a spare tire secured underneath make sure it can be easily removed - the mechanism may be rusted through. Check if the jack is still operable. If you have wheel locks installed, make sure you have the key and the wrench to open the wheel nuts.

Basic emergency kit for your car

A basic emergency kit for your car can include:

- Jumper wires

- Tire sealer-inflator can

- Tire gauge- Couple of rags and work glows

- Flashlight

- Simple tool kit with screwdrivers, pliers and set of most common sockets. Consider also spare headlight bulb and a couple of fuses, a bottle of engine oil, windshield washer fluid and antifreeze, emergency stop sign or flares, duct tape, electrical tape, spare ignition key etc.

Don't forget your personal emergency kit with First Aid kit and items like a blanket, a bottle of water, couple of energy bars, etc.

Car Cleaning Tips

Even the hottest car on the street looks rough when it is dirty. Here are some top cleaning tips to keep your car clean:

The following tips contain a quick (going out with parents) and showroom (car needs to look perfect) guide to cleaning your car.

Rinse & Wet the Car (with standard tap water) - DO NOT USE A SPONGE because it will pick up grit and you'll be rubbing the grit around and it'll act like sandpaper. A high pressure hose is best for this but a hosepipe with a strong jet will help. Once you have removed the loose grit and the car is wet the rest of the dirt will start to loosen as the water gets into it. (To allow time for the water to start dissolving the dirt it's a good time to clean out the inside of the car.)

Inside of the Car - Pick up crisp packets, sweet wrappers and those car park stickers. Remove removable mats and vacuum them then move on to the rest of the interior with the hoover. Wipe down the dashboard, console and all other plastic with a damp (not wet) cloth. (for soiled areas use a mild detergent but wipe off thoroughly). Avoid using products with Silicone in as they leave a greasy residue & over spray onto the pedals can be lethal. Do not polish the dashboard because this can cause glare on sunny days. Carpet & upholstery stains can be easily removed with CAR PLAN interior valet (this is the only product I have found that could remove dark engine grease stains on a light grey interior.) Finally wipe over the sills, boot/Trunk seams (the internal bits you only see when the door is open with a damp sponge.)

Back to the Outside - the car should still be wet - hose over one more time ready for the pre wash. Use a very soft sponge or soft wool mitt, and very gently wipe over the entire car the aim is to remove all grit particles. (Do not scrub tar or mud deposits at this stage) Start at the top of the car and work round it in circles like peeling an orange making the sills and bumpers the last thing you touch overall - these are generally the dirtiest and most gritty items.

Pre wash - Using a bucket of clean (for perfection use filtered) water and a car pre wash product - choose something that does not foam up or cause lots of bubbles. (Autoglym car shampoo is very good and conditions the water to avoid streaks.) Don't use a shampoo with built in polish this would effectively seal the dirt and stains under a thin layer of wax and makes the cleaning job 100 times harder and makes the windows go hazy every time you use your wipers. Use a tar and bug remover spray to soften the really stubborn stains.

Main Wash - Again with a quality car shampoo. Time to use a slightly harder sponge or cotton cleaning pad. Like last time work in circles using the orange peel method. A scrub pad can be used for really tough stains but only on areas of paint work hardened like the sills and lower front bumper. You want to avoid creating those wheel mark scratches caused mainly by bad cleaning methods or automatic car washes.

Wheels and tyres - clean off with a brush first, then use a hard sponge or scrub pad. Do not use anything you'll use to clean the wheels on your bodywork next time or it will be full of grit and scratch your paintwork. Brake dust is hard to remove and you'll usually require a chemical brake dust and alloy wheel cleaner. These usually need brushing on leaving for a while then sponging off. As fairly nasty chemicals are used in most of these products wear gloves and avoid contact with your skin.

Rinse off - Time for some fresh clean water. A watering can filled with water (again for perfection filtered) is the easiest method of rinsing off the car.

Dry the car off using a Chamois leather - They need to be slightly damp to work best and you are buffing the water into small droplets, a mist then a haze then the water is gone. Most people expect the Chamois to work like a towel and soak up the water but it works more like a wiper blade - creating a thin film of water and letting it evaporate itself. Patience is the key.

Glass - using a glass cleaning product go over the windows inside and out in a circular motion. DON'T USE HOUSE GLASS CLEANER - make sure its a proper automotive glass cleaner. This is also the time to fix the stone chips (You'll have to wait for the paint to dry before moving on to the polishing stage.) We are doing an article on stone chip removal so check back soon!

Tip: The best cloth to use on glass is a piece of Hessian which has been hot washed to remove the colour and shrunk. (Window cleaners swear by it.) It's handy to keep in the car for cold morning when the windows mist up. We also recommend the use of microfibre cloths for paintwork, chrome and other areas this leaves a streak free finish.

The polish - Generally you rub it on (in straight lines not circles) to a light haze then buff off. An electronic buffer can really cut the polishing time but be careful. IE: If you used an electric buffer to clean your face it would be quick but hurt. Car paintwork is also delicate and pressure should not be applied and only soft cloths should be used. Use one cloth to apply the polish, another to buff it off and then with a really soft cloth buff up the polish to a showroom finish. Two mist & buff off coats are far better than gobbing on as much polish as you can (the extra is just rubbed off and less shiny residue is left behind.)

The quick method - Jet wash the car down and rub it over. Add your polish to a litre of water and rub it into the paintwork only - don't do the windows. Jet wash to rinse off. Then with a fine sponge rub the car all over with clean water. Squirt your windscreen washer and set your wipers to fast. Go for a drive to dry the car off. Buff off the damp polish residue with a chamois leather and &shiny within 15 minutes. So what products do we recommend?

Autoglym - This is a very extensive range of car cleaning products and in our opinion is very good value for money. The Autoglym range is available from most good car part shops - see our shop link page for details. Meguiars Tech wax gives a superb finish on slightly scratched paint and is really easy to apply.

Interior Cleaner - Car plan interior valet - in our test was the best budget buy mass market product available and did just seem to dissolve the dirt. We recommend using a stiff brush because the included plastic brush is a little to harsh. This is available from your local car store. For the perfectionists - try Zymol Fabrique an intensive cleansing cleaner to give your car a spa day & beauty makeover.

Change for the Better - Hey Brakes!

Changes are to do much for the better, if you analyze the change is going to affect positively then don’t think much. Same applies for the vehicles.

Changing many fluids in a vehicle is always a change for the better. Dirty engine oil, transmission fluid or anti-freeze are bad news for a car.

Also don’t forget brake fluid? Many motorists know that this fluid should be topped off, but changed?

According to CarDrives brake fluid in the typical vehicle can become dirty in two years or less. This is due to the fluid absorbs moisture, which works its way through the hydraulic system. If you are driving in heavy braking conditions or hilly driving or when towing a trailer, moisture in the overheated in mountainous or hilly driving or when towing a trailer, moisture in the overheated fluid vaporizes (This is because boiling point of water is lower than that of brake fluid) and braking efficiency is reduced.

Sometimes even under normal driving conditions this happens, if the brake fluid is seriously contaminated. Not only is the fluid vulnerable to vaporizing, it also can freeze.

Brake fluid should maintain a sable viscosity throughout its operating temperature range. If it’s too thin or too thick, braking action is harmed. Beyond the vaporization hazard, moisture creates an extra dilemma for owners of vehicles equipped with anti-lock braking (ABS) systems. Rusted and corroded ABS components are very expensive to replace.

How do you know when to have fluid changed? A normal replacement every two years or 24,000 miles is recommended.

Certainly it should be included with brake pad or shoe replacement, as a preventive measure, a professional brake technician should test the condition of the fluid with an accurate fluid test safety meter, which he inserts into the master cylinder reservoir to record the fluid’s boiling point.

Keep Your Old Car Running Like New

“Those who travel over 200 miles/month needs to care their cars. “The more trips and the more miles add up.”

Everyone wants to keep their car running for as long as possible because we hate expense of replacing it. A significant number of drivers are keeping their vehicles longer. According to national surveys, the average age of passenger cars and light trucks nationally is now between 8.8 and 9.2 years.

Thanks to better built engines and vehicles overall, improved technology in rust inhibitors and other anti-corrosives for automobile undercarriages and bodies and the general sticker shock relating to the average price of a new car, people are keeping their older cars longer and taking better care of them than ever before.

“With proper maintenance, it’s not unusual to see vehicles accumulate 200,000 miles or more without needing expensive overhauls or repairs.”

It’s also important to realize, however, that higher mileage vehicles have different needs when compared to newer vehicles. Over time, engine parts experience wear, deposits form on metal surfaces, and seals can dry out.

Older engines have different lubricating needs and require more attention than newer ones if they’re going to continue functioning well.

Jimi says, “The oil gives engines an extra layer of protection by providing additional cleaning agents for critical engine parts and conditioning seals, which, thereby, helps reduce oil leakage and prevent valve deposits”

Sara says keeping her car running in tip top shape is very important. “It’s our family vehicle. I have two small children and it gives me piece of mind to know I’m doing something to keep my car running longer”

Summer Driving Tips

A quick and easy automotive checkup can help prepare a vehicle for the stress of high temperatures and increase its reliability on long road trips.

Belt, Hoses and Fluids -- With the engine off, look for worn or cracked belts and damaged, blistered or soft hoses. Inspect the antifreeze/coolant level and condition, making certain the proper 50/50 mixture of water and coolant is present.

Motor Oil -- Check motor oil level and condition. If driving under extreme conditions, such as very hot temperatures or towing a heavy trailer, switch to motor oil with higher viscosity. Check the owner's manual for specific oil recommendations.

Air Conditioning -- A properly working air conditioning system also will help motorists keep their cool in summer heat. If needed, have the air conditioning serviced by a qualified technician, using the refrigerant R-12 in older systems or R-134A in new or modified air conditioners. Do not use non-approved substitute refrigerants.

Emergency Kit -- Because even properly maintained vehicles can break down, AAA Minneapolis advises motorists to equip their vehicle with an emergency kit containing at least the following items: A flashlight with extra batteries, warning devices such as flares or reflective triangles, jumper cables, a first-aid kit, and a cellular phone to summon emergency assistance.

Tire Myths...and Reality

"Black and round." If that sums up the bulk of your knowledge about tires, you could be missing out on some key facts.

By Rik Paul

Photography by the Author

Myth: I should inflate my tires according to the pressure indicated on the tire sidewall.

Fact: The handwriting's not on the wall--the tire sidewall, that is. Molded into the sidewall is the tire's maximum inflation pressure, not the manufacturer-recommended pressure. For normal operation, follow inflation pressure recommendations in the owner's manual or on the vehicle placard located in the glovebox or on the door post. Myth: A tread pattern is needed to provide great traction on dry roads. Fact: A racing slick--a tire without any tread--provides the ultimate in dry traction due to the maximum amount of rubber touching the road. A tread pattern, with its groove voids, actually compromises this adhesion capability on dry roads. The role of tire tread is to act as a squeegee on wet roads to remove water from under the tire and channel it through the grooves for improved wet traction.

Myth: Performance tires wear out faster because of the sticky compounds.

Fact: Performance tires may wear out faster than conventional family-car tires; however, tread rubber polymers aren't the culprits. In fact, new polymers and ultratensile steel constructions make performance tires last longer than ever. Industrywide, performance tires average about 45,000 miles in tread life, similar to the figures for family-car passenger tires. Fast wear usually is due to high-horsepower vehicles fitted with the tires and aggressive driving. Jackrabbit starts and quick stops can shorten the life of any tire.

Myth: Wide tires provide better traction under all weather conditions. In fact, putting oversize snow tires on a car delivers better snow traction.

Fact: The opposite is actually true. Wide tires tend to "float" on deep snow, and the tread lugs never have a chance to "dig" through to the road surface to gain traction. Narrow tires are a better option in deep snow. The tire acts similarly to a knife cutting through butter; the blade works best when using the narrow edge to push through the butter rather than the wide flat side of the blade.

Myth: All-season tires are so good that winter tires are never needed.

Fact: In some parts of the country, this may be true, but if you live in the northernmost states or in Canada, the traction provided by winter tires can't be beat. Winter tires reign supreme in rural areas where snow remains on the road for days. They provide 25-percent-improved traction in deep snow over all-season tires. Metal-studded tires deliver up to 40 percent greater traction on hard-packed snow and ice over all-season tires, but many locales have restrictions regarding the use of studs.

Myth: Never rotate tires from side to side, only front to back.

Fact: Radial tires can be crossed from side to side in the rotation pattern. The old front-to-back rule applied to bias ply tires. Regular tire rotation--every 6000 to 8000 miles--promotes more uniform wear for all tires on a vehicle. (Goodyear recently designed a light-truck tire system that requires no rotation; the Wrangler RF-A provides a rear tire with a different tread design from the front tire).

Myth: Put your new tires on the drive-wheel position to get the most traction.

Fact: This is only true on a rear-drive vehicle. In all cases, install new tires on the rear axle. Most tire buyers purchase new rubber for the drive-wheel position to get the most traction; however, by doing so they transfer most of their traction capabilities from the rear and make it susceptible to oversteer. The vehicle's rear will fishtail and swing out in fast cornering or emergency maneuvers.

Myth: Sticking your fingernail in the tread can help you pick the tire with the softest compounds, and thus, the best adhesion.

Fact: It's sort of like kicking the tire, but with another part of your anatomy. Tread compounds only tell part of a tire's story. Tread pattern, tire shape, and tire footprint shape on the pavement provide clues to its adhesion capabilities. Don't rely on the fingernail test.

Myth: The government tests tires for traction, temperature resistance, and treadwear and assigns grades molded onto the sidewall.

Fact: Uniform Tire Quality Grading is a federal law that requires tire manufacturers to grade their own tires for treadwear, traction, and temperature resistance. Tire manufacturers, not the government, test tires and assign their own grades. Unfortunately, the government has not prescribed a formula for converting the manufacturer test results into universal grades; therefore, the numbers are not objective. According to the Federal Trade Commission, treadwear grades are for comparison purposes only and are not intended to be converted into anticipated or promised tire mileage.

Myth: An undulation on a tire sidewall is a weak spot that could lead to tire failure.

Fact: An undulation is created where materials overlap each other in the tire carcass, and it actually is the strongest part of the tire. Still, motorists perceive a "wave" on the sidewall as a defect. Goodyear's new ultratensile steel reinforcement eliminates this material splice and overlap. Ultratensile steel should reduce sidewall undulation in polyester-reinforced tires.

Myth: Before you buy a car, kick the tires.

Fact: It might not tell you much about the vehicle or tires, but it could tell you whether your shoe padding is adequate.

Car-care tips that save gas

By Lucy Lazarony

Fill up with a lower-octane gasoline. Buy the lowest grade or octane of gasoline that is appropriate for your car. Unless your car requires premium gasoline, filling up your car with high-octane fuel is a waste of money. That pricey premium fuel won't boost your car's fuel economy or performance in the least, so skip it.

If you're not sure what grade of fuel works best for your car, open up your owner's manual and take a look. As long as your engine doesn't knock or ping when you fuel up with regular unleaded, you're good to drive on this much cheaper gas. Passing on pricey premium gasoline could save you hundreds of dollars a year.

Don't top off. Don't bother topping off when filling your car's gas tank. Any additional gas is just going to slop around or seep out. Why waste your money paying for gas your car won't use? Stop pumping at the first indication that your tank is full when the automatic nozzle clicks off.

Tighten up that gas cap. Gas will evaporate from your car's gas tank if it has an escape. Loose, missing or damaged gas caps cause 147 million gallons of gas to evaporate each year, according to the Car Care Council. So be sure to tighten up that gas cap each time you fuel up your car.

Go for the shade. The hot summer sun that makes the inside of your car feel like a sauna also zaps fuel from your gas tank.

"If you let your car bake in the sun there's going to be a greater amount of evaporative emissions that take place than if you park in the shade," says Jim Kliesch, research associate at the American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy and vehicle analyst for GreenerCars.com.

So park your car in the shade of a building or tree whenever possible. And buy a good windshield shade. A windshield shade blocks sunlight and helps to keep heat out of the inside of your car.

Use your garage for your car. Got a garage? Clear it out and make room for your car. Parking in your garage will help your car stay warm in winter and cool in summer, and you won't have to depend as much on your gas-guzzling air-conditioning or defroster when you drive.

Pump up your tires. Don't get caught driving on underinflated tires. Underinflated tires wear down more quickly and they also lower your car's gas mileage.

"Tires that have low pressure offer more resistance so the engine is going to work harder to keep the car at 60," says Brian Moody, road test editor at Edmunds.com .

Your car's gas mileage may plummet by as much as 15 percent. Driving on underinflated tires may also reduce the life of your tires by 15 percent or more.

Check your tire pressure once a month. Buy a digital gauge and keep it in your glove box. Compare the pressure in your tires with the recommended pressure listed in your owner's manual and on the placard in your car door. Then inflate your tires as needed. Be sure to check tire pressure when your tires are cold. A good time is early in the morning after your car's been idle overnight.

Keep your engine in tune. Fixing a car that is out of tune or has failed an emissions test can boost gas mileage by about 4 percent. So be sure to give your car regular tune-ups. You'll also want to watch out for worn spark plugs. A misfiring spark plug can reduce a car's fuel efficiency by as much as 30 percent.

Replace air filters. Keep a close eye on your engine's air filter. When the engine air filter clogs with dirt, dust and bugs, it causes your engine to work harder and your car becomes less fuel-efficient. Replacing a clogged air filter could improve your gas mileage by as much as 10 percent and save you 15 cents a gallon. It's a good idea to have your engine air filter checked at each oil change. The Car Care Council recommends changing your car's air and oil filters every three months or 3,000 miles or as specified in your owner's manual.

Use the right oil. You can improve your car's gas mileage by 1 percent to 2 percent by using the manufacturer's recommended grade of motor oil. Opt for motor oil with the words "energy conserving" on the API performance label. This oil contains friction-reducing additives.

Don't skimp on maintenance. Be serious about auto care. Your car's performance depends on it.

"Always follow the manufacturer-recommended maintenance," Moody says. "The car's designed to run a certain way. If you neglect it, it won't be as efficient."

Obey the car-care guidelines outlined in your owner's manual. For more auto-care guidelines check out this free maintenance schedule from the Car Care Council.

Tips To Prevent Car Theft

Take Your Keys. Nearly 20 percent of all vehicles stolen have the keys in them.

Lock Your Car. Approximately 50 percent of all vehicles stolen were left unlocked.

Never Hide a Second Set of Keys in Your Car. Extra keys can be easily found if a thief takes time to look.

Park in Well-lighted Areas. Over half of all vehicle thefts occur at night.

Park in Attended Lots. Auto thieves do not like witnesses and prefer unattended parking lots.

If You Park in an Attended Lot, Leave Only the Ignition/Door Key. If your trunk and glovebox use the same key as the door, have one of them changed. Don't give the attendant easy access to your glovebox and trunk. Upon returning, check the tires, spare tire, and battery to be sure they are the same as those you had when you parked.

Never Leave Your Car Running, Even if You'll Only be Gone For a Minute. Vehicles are commonly stolen at convenience stores, gas stations, ATMs, etc. Many vehicles are also stolen on cold mornings when the owner leaves the vehicle running to warm up.

Completely Close Car Windows When Parking. Don't make it any easier for the thief to enter your vehicle.

Don't Leave Valuables in Plain View. Don't make your car a more desirable target and attract thieves by leaving valuables in plain sight.

Park With Your Wheels Turned Toward the Curb. Make your car tough to tow away. Wheels should also be turned to the side in driveways and parking lots.

If Your Vehicle is Rear-Wheel Drive, Back into Your Driveway. Rear wheels lock on four-wheel drive vehicles, making them difficult to tow. Front-wheel drive vehicles should be parked front end first.

Always Use Your Emergency Brake When Parking. In addition to ensuring safety, using the emergency brake makes your car harder to tow.

If You Have a Garage, Use It. If you have a garage, take the time to use it rather than parking outside where your vehicle is more vulnerable.

When parking in a Garage, Lock the Garage Door and Your Vehicle. By locking both the garage and vehicle doors, the chances of deterring a thief greatly improve.

Don't leave the registration or Title in Your Car. A car thief will use these to sell your stolen car. File the title at your home or office, and carry registration in your purse or wallet.

Disable Your Vehicle When Leaving it Unattended for an Extended Period. Remove the electronic ignition fuse, coil wire, rotor distributor, or otherwise disable your vehicle anytime thieves may have extended access to it.

Replace T-Shaped Door Locks With Straight Locks. Some vehicle doors have lock assemblies at window level that flare out in a knob or "T" shape. A thief can use various tools to gain access inside the vehicle, grab and pull the lock. Straight locks prevent this.

Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). Stolen cars/parts are more easily traced when vehicle VIN numbers have been etched on car windows and major parts.

Expensive Accessories. Engrave personal ID numbers on car stereos, cellular phones, etc., so the thief will have difficulty disposing of them.

Ignition Kill Switch. Splice an inexpensive toggle switch into your ignition wire. The trick is hiding the switch well. Keypads, pressure pads and more expensive "immobilizers" and "passkeys" can also be used.

Fuel Kill Switch. The valve that halts the fuel supply is closed. Visible Steering Wheel Lock. Prevents the steering wheel from being turned.

Floorboard Locks. Devices that disable the gas or break pedal.

Gearshift Locks. Disables shifting of the transmission.

Tire/Wheel Locks. Prevents the vehicle from moving.

Hood Locks. Prevents the thief from gaining access to your security system and battery.

Armored Collar Around Steering Column. Protects the column and ignition.

Electronic Security Systems. Audio alarms sound loud warnings when doors/hood/trunk are opened. Optional sensors include glass breakage, motion, tampering and towing. Panic bottons and automatic engine disable features are also recommended.

Vehicle Tracking. This is done with a transmitter hidden in the car that allows police to track the vehicle.

CUSTOM PAINTING (PIMP MY RIDE)

How to Polish a Car

Polishing a car can be a lot of work, but the gleaming results will be well worth it. Polishes come in liquids, pastes and systems of two or more products to be used consecutively.

Here's what to use and how to use them

Instructions

-Wash the car out of direct sunlight.

-Read the car polish label carefully. Some products will stain plastic trim; others must be applied within a certain temperature range.

-Work on one section at a time.

-Apply a 1-inch circle of polish to a dampened, clean, 100 percent cotton terry cloth towel.

-Rub the polish onto the car body in a circular motion.

-Let the polish dry to a haze.

-Use a different towel of the same type (dry this time) to buff the polish.

-Move to the next section of the car.

Tips & Warnings

-Avoid swirl marks by washing all the dirt off of the car first and by using a 100 percent cotton terry cloth towel to apply and remove the polish. The nap draws grit up into the towel instead of rubbing it into the finish.

-Wash your towels with liquid fabric softener--this will keep them fluffy for best results.

-Avoid using too much elbow grease on ridges and corners. Your car's paint is thinner in those spots.

Car Interior Care -CIC

Taking care of your car’s appearance is very important. A lot of people think that it’s enough to take care of just of outside but forget of inside. The inside area of your car, known as interior, usually includes the seats, seat belts, harnesses, inside door panels, carpeting mats, dashboard and cargo area. Your car’s interior provides comfort, safety and convenience for all the passengers. Additionally it is a centre of all car’s systems control. For example, the Climate Control System allows you to feel comfortable in spite of season, weather or driving conditions.

It quite possible to compare your car’s interior with the living room in your house as you spend there much time. So keeping your car’s interior clean saves you a lot of time, provides long interior life and makes the next clean-up much easier.Also you should keep in mind that it’s necessary to prevent any loose articles from moving around the interior as it may be dangerous when a sudden jar of the car takes place during an accident. That’s why you should remove all unnecessary items and locate the rest ones in a secure place.

It’s important to keep your vehicle interior clean and well maintained. First, thoroughly vacuum the car’s interior. Frequent vacuuming removes much of the dirt that accelerates wear and tear of the fabric and carpet. Clean fabric and carpets periodically to remove imbedded dirt and minimize the likelihood of stains. While vacuuming be very careful when you reach under the seat ? haven’t you forgotten of what you have placed there?

Towels and clean water re the main tools for dash are and seats. Cotton swabs will help you to remove dust out of tight spots and a clean, stiff-bristled brush is just indispensable to clean the carpets. While cleaning carpets don’t use too much water as many people do. Remember that it’s very important to let the carpet dry thoroughly before closing the vehicle up tight.

When we speak of upholstery cleaning; it’s necessary to always match the cleaning product to the surface. Use the products specifically designed for the surface you want to clean whether it is leather, vinyl, plastic, wood, simulated wood or upholstery Foam cleaner, for example, will very well work with cloth or velour upholstery. You can also use it on your carpet and floor mats.

Leather interiors, however, require special care. Like a pair of shoes, leather seats can crack and age quickly. Never use a solvent-based cleaner for leather interior as it will only speed up the aging process. Use only specifically designed leather cleaners.

There are many special cleaners which are very useful for many vinyl and leather portions of your car interior. They will provide not only protection from dirt and harmful sun rays but also offer an attractive shine.

Draw particular attention to floor mats as they are aimed to protect your car’s carpet from dirtiness, stains, spills and wear. That’s why don’t try to save your money on floor mats and if they are old and shabby, drop in the local shop and get new ones.

Spills should be cleaned away as soon as possible to avoid the possibility of stains. Be careful when use carpet or upholstery spot cleaner, first read manufacturer’s recommendations. Test all cleaners for color-fastness in a hard-to-see spot first before using in a more conspicuous place.

To remove dust, pollen and common allergens from interior surfaces use shop clothes. They capture dirt rather than moving it around. You’d better always keep some in the glove compartment to use when necessary.

Finish your cleaning work with some glass cleaner on the windows. Window smudges are focal points that can make the entire vehicle appear dirty. For cleaning windows, avoid products that contain ammonia, as it can damage window tint film on the inside of the windows. Clean water and towels will help you to clean windows quickly and effectively.

Never use ammonia to clean seatbelts either, as it affects the seatbelts’ ability to protect you in the event of a crash.Finally don’t forget to fresh the air and dry the interior thoroughly. Follow these tips, take care of the car’s exterior and interior and your vehicle will become everyone’s admiration.