Heel and Toe Shifting

Heel and toe is the art of changing down a gear and rev matching while braking. By combining the braking and gear change when approaching a corner instead of performing them as two separate actions you'll be faster in any driving discipline - an essential skill to master. Note: When approaching a corner, remember to select a gear which will allow you to exit the corner quickly.

How do I do it?

This technique s is possible by turning your right foot inwards, using your toes to operate the brakes and your heel you increase the throttle. Although this sounds complicated, it's actually a relatively easy technique to master with a bit of practice. The technique is vital on the track, but will also make you a much smoother driver on the road.

Heel and toe – step by step:

As you approach the braking point, cover the brake pedal with the ball of your right foot. The brake is the priority of the two pedals, so ensure good contact and no risk of your foot slipping off. In some cars it is very difficult to heel and toe due to the pedal position. It's useful to wear racing boots or thin soled shoes to increaser your pedal feel and decrease chances of your foot sliding off the brake.

Apply the brake and reduce your speed to a point where it's possible to change down without over-revving the engine.

Now rotate your foot and prepare to press the accelerator with your heel.

In a fluid series of events, press the clutch, increase the engine speed using the throttle with the heel of your right foot. Now press the clutch and change down a gear.

Smoothly release the clutch.

Take the corner, and accelerate smoothly and prepare for the next bend.

Left foot braking

Left foot braking is a technique used frequently in rallying, but can be equally useful on the road or track for:

Reducing understeer into a corner
Reducing drive loss through spinning wheels
Removing the pedal transfer time between accelerator and brake

Reducing understeer into a corner

The theory here is that you can feather the brakes into a corner (trail braking), while transitioning to progressive throttle at the apex. This can lead to a very smooth transition between braking and acceleration and is less likely to unsettle the car through unwanted weight transfer. It also keeps the weight at the front of the vehicle for as long as possible, thus providing more grip, a better turn in and reduces the possibility of understeer.

Reducing drive loss through spinning wheels

This technique is particularly useful for a front wheel drive car without a limited slip differential. On the exit of the corner, it is a common symptom for one the unladen front wheel to spin while applying throttle. This spinning wheel is preventing all of the power from transferring to the road and thus slowing the exit speed. By feathering the brake with the left foot, this can prevent or reduce this wheelspin, and get a better exit.

Removing the pedal transfer time between accelerator and brake

Using the left foot to brake removes the pedal transition time from brake to accelerator and vice versa. This can shave fractions of a second off a lap time when done well, but cannot be used when it is necessary to change down a gear (unless you decide not to use the clutch!)

Common mistake when learning to left foot brake

Left foot braking is an advanced technique, and should only be attempted in anger after lots of practice. When learning to left foot brake, you'll initially press the pedal far too hard as you'll be used to the action of pressing a clutch all the way to the floor. It takes time to re-programme the muscle memory of your foot and leg, and a bit of empty tarmac is recommended.

The basics - control

Before learning how to drive a performance car on the limit, it's important to have a good grasp of car control. To master this art you need practice….in your own car….on a stretch of tarmac or track you know well. Alternatively book a track day or driving experience with a racing or rally instructor. Every car has different properties and behaves differently on the limit. It's a very rare talent to be able to jump into a new car and drive it well.

The key here is smoothness. A car driven by a smooth driver does not experience the rapid peaks of force which could be caused by, for example, rapid steering or braking inputs.

If you're driving a car through a corner at 99% of it's limit, a rapid stamp on the brakes will certainly cause you to lose control (ABS can't help you if you're going sideways!). In fact even a small press on the brakes, or even lifting off the throttle could unsettle the car enough to lose traction. This isn't the end of the world on a track, but not so fun on the road.

So, you can either drive the car at 70% leaving you room for nasty gear changes, or you can drive at 80% and concentrate on smooth steering, braking, acceleration and gear inputs, and still leaving room for error. Once you've mastered this art, you can progress to competitive racing speeds.

How to Properly Repair Paint Chips

The repair of a scratch and a chip are the same. A scratch is merely a chip on uni-directional steroids. The only problem with a scratch is that it takes more time to be able to blend in the new paint.

Items you need:

• Touchup or color matched paint

• Compatible primer - I like Wurth Rustop primer

• Organic cleaner - P21S Total Auto Wash or Wurth Citrus Degreaser

• Solvent - Rubbing Alcohol or Prepsol or Enamel Reducer

• 3M Imperial Hand Glaze

• Sanding Block 2000 grit

• Car wash

• 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper

• Round undyed wooden toothpicks

• Large lightweight cardboard boxes (large shoe box or bigger)

• Several 100% cotton towels

• New Pencils with unused erasers

• Rubber glue

• Several heavy clean plastic cups

• Roll of quality paint masking tape

Paint chip repair is a learned skill and should be practiced on an area of the car that is not that visible. The hood and nose are two areas that should be tackled last. Test all cleaners or solvents on the paint prior to usage. Try using the seam underneath the rocker panels. Apply a little cleaner or solvent to a cloth and rub the seam. If you do not get any color on the rag, then the cleaner/solvent should be safe for the paint. If you do get color on the rag, then you may wish to consider another solvent.

CHIP REPAIR STEPS:

1. At least 24 hours before you want to start, use the rubber glue to attach small 600 grit sandpaper circles (the diameter of the eraser) onto several new pencils. The eraser must be unused and flat on top.

2. Wash the car with a quality car wash and dry thoroughly.

3. Paint chips come in two flavors. The worst case has exposed the bare metal, while the less severe has left the original primer intact. Clean the area thoroughly with the P21S or Wurth Citrus degreaser. If there is rust on the exposed metal, clean off with the pencil eraser. Use a toothpick to gently probe the area and make sure that the edges of the chip are secure and not waiting to fall off and destroy your work. This is an optional step! If you do not feel comfortable with sanding or your paint is one of the new clear-coated finishes, you should jump to step number 5. Take a new pencil/sandpaper tool, dip into clean water and put a few drops of water on the chip area. *SLIGHTLY* rough up the chip and a small portion of the surrounding paint. Lightly turning the pencil will rough up an area the diameter of the eraser and this should be more than enough. Keep the roughed up area as small as possible, the object is to give the new paint approximately 1 mm of old paint to "grab" around the perimeter of the chip and not dig scratches.

4. Move onto the next chip and repeat the above. Depending upon the amount of time available, you may wish to tackle 10-20 chips at one time. Try to stay within the area that may be covered by your box(es).

5. When finished sanding all your chips you are tackling at this time apply a small amount of Alcohol or Prepsol or Enamel Reducer to a rag and wipe each chip and surrounding area to remove any sanding dust and grease/oils. Use additional solvent and new area of the rag for each chip. Allow to dry (these are highly volatile and will evaporate quickly with no residue).

6. If the original primer is intact, and "pencil sanding" does not disturb the primer, then skip the next step and go directly to painting (# 9)

7. Make sure that the chip and surrounding area is clean. If not, reclean with the Prepsol, Alcohol or Enamel Reducer. Pour or spray a small amount of primer into a clean plastic cup. Dip the point of a wooden toothpick into the primer to get a thin coating on the first 1-2 mm of the toothpick. If there is a blob on the end, gently scrape it back into the cup. Place the tip of the toothpick against the center of the chip and allow capillary action to literally flow a *THIN* coat of the primer into the depression of the chip. Move onto the next prepared chip. If you have finished priming all your prepared chips before two hours are up, cover with a box, taped down with masking tape and go have a beer. The key is to allow the first coat of primer to dry at least two hours. Dispose of your cup and start with a fresh cup and toothpick. Apply another thin coat of primer to each repair that needs primer. Priming is completed when no metal is visible and the level of the primer is *BELOW* the level of the surrounding paint. This is important! Cover and allow to dry for two hours or until dry.

8. Apply a small amount of Alcohol or Prepsol or Enamel Reducer to a rag and wipe the chip and surrounding area to remove any sanding dust and grease/oils. Allow to dry. Repeat for all the chips that are on today's list of victims.

9. If you are using a touchup, shake the bottle thoroughly. If you are using color-matched paint, mix thoroughly and pour a small amount into a clean plastic cup.

10. Dip the point of a new toothpick into the paint to get a thin coating on the first 1-2 mm of the toothpick. If there is a blob on the end, gently scrape it back into the bottle. Place the tip of the toothpick against the center of the chip and allow capillary action to literally flow the paint into the depression of the chip. Repeat for each chip. The key is not to use too much paint. Do not redip the toothpick. Use only the amount that will flow from one dip. Temptation to add more paint with each application will be almost overwhelming. Fight it!

11. Cover with your paint box and allow to dry 2 hours and repeat 8-12 times till the depression is filled with paint and bulges slightly upward and covers the roughed up area with a thin coating of paint. The first 2-3 coats may not completely hide the primer. This is fine because you have many more coats to go. Fight that urge!

12. The paint application is completed when the new paint bulges slightly upward (a fraction of a millimeter) and had covered the roughed up area with a thin coat of new paint. Allow the paint to dry for at least a week.

13. The touchup paint has been applied to the surface and allowed to dry for at least 1 week, and resembles a minute mound on the flat plane of the existing paint. The object is to remove the mound and make the surface of the paint one continuous flat plane. The Finesse Block offers the ability to gently remove only the high spot of the repair. Unlike sandpaper or polish on a rag, the five usable sides of the block are flat and act like a "wood plane" to remove only the elevated areas of the repair. The 2000 grit will not leave scratches.

14. Soak the Finesse Block in clean water for 24 hours prior to use. Put a small drop of car wash on the chip repair. This acts as a lubricant for the sanding block. Then gently "plane" the high spot on the paint. I prefer to "plane" in one direction (usually back to front - drawing the block towards me). If the block dries out, re-wet and continue use. When the new and existing paints are blended (smoothed to the flat plane) to your satisfaction, clean the area using a quality car wash and lots of water and then use a quality glaze to restore the high gloss finish. I prefer 3M Imperial Hand Glaze. Don't use a machine on your car, as it deserves to be caressed by hand. Use a machine on your Yugo or SO.

15. When applying either a glaze or a wax, apply to your soft cotton cloth or applicator pad (don't squirt the stuff on the car) and work in one direction only. Don't go around in circles like dear old dad. Circles are many times the cause of "swirl marks." A front-to-back, back-to-front motion (the way the air flows over the car) will help minimize swirl marks or at least make them less visible. Buff out with a soft cotton cloth. If it looks good, wax with a quality hard wax and you are done.

16. Tip for applying wax. If you are using a quality Carnauba based wax, try applying it with your fingers instead of a pad or cloth. Hold your fingers together and use your fingertips as an applicator pad. The tactile feedback from your fingers will tell you when the wax has been worked into the paint. If grit should lodge under your fingers, you will know immediately and not grind it into the paint. A pad will not allow this tactile feedback and these devil grits become sandpaper. A circular motion of the pad will make a 360-degree swirl mark. All marks on paint are most visible at a 90 degree viewing angle. Thus the front to back marks are most visible from the sides, whereas a circle stands out from any viewing angle.

Car check list before a long trip

A long trip is a serious exam for your car. Even a small problem such as a worn wiper, out-of-balance tire or improper alignment may turn your trip into a nightmare. Here, you can find simple tips on how to prepare your vehicle for a trip including illustrated checklist. However, this checklist does not include many other important items such as brakes and suspension components that may only be inspected by a mechanic in a garage. Book an appointment with your dealer or a mechanic well before your trip. Ask for one of those maintenance packages with an oil change, tire rotation and mechanical inspection. Don't leave it for a last moment, do it few days before your trip.

Check your car Owner's Manual

Have a look in your vehicle's owner's manual - It's the best source of useful information. From how to use overdrive when towing a trailer to how to change the tire and where is the jack located - it's all in there. Also you may find out the proper tire pressure and how to change a headlight bulb, where is the transmission dipstick located, and a lot more.

Check the Engine Oil

Many engine problems are initially caused by simply lack of oil changes. If your next oil change is due soon, definitely do it before a trip.To check the engine oil, place the car on a flat surface, warm up and stop the engine. Wait for a minute allowing the oil to pour down the oil pan. Locate the oil dipstick - usually it has some kind of bright color handle that indicates "ENGINE OIL". Pull the dipstick out, wipe it with a clean rug or a paper towel and insert it back fully. Pull it out again and check the level - it should be close to the "FULL" mark on the dipstick. If the oil appears too black - it definitely needs to be changed. If the level is low you can top it up using the same type of oil as you already have in the engine.

Automatic Transmission fluid

Long trip with a full load will be another exam for your automatic transmission. If your transmission fluid change due soon change it before a trip.How to check the transmission fluid: Warm up the car. Place the car on a level surface. Set the hand brake. With the shifter lever in Parking position and the engine idling [the procedure may vary on certain models, refer to the owner's manual] pull the automatic transmission fluid dipstick, wipe it and insert it back fully. Pull it again and check the fluid level and condition. Conventional transmission fluid has red or pinkish-red color when it's new. Over the time under high temperature and load the transmission fluid loses its qualities and oxidizes becoming more brownish. If it appears too dark it's better to change it, especially if you going to tow a trailer. If the trailer is very heavy, consider installing additional transmission fluid cooler.

Engine antifreeze (coolant)

Check the engine antifreeze (coolant) level in the overflow tank - it's visible from outside. The level should be between "Min" and "Max" marks. (Don't open the radiator cap when the engine is hot!) If the antifreeze level is well below the minimum, look for possible leaks. Any leaks should be fixed before a trip - lack of coolant on the road may cause engine to overheat which may cause serious damage. If it's lower just a bit, you can simply top it up using recommended for your car type of antifreeze mixed 50/50 with water.

Battery

Unfortunately, there is no way to tell when the battery will die - sometimes it happens unexpectedly with no prior signs. However, if you feel that cranking speed is slower than before, the battery is probably close to its end. Usually the new battery may last from 2 to 5 years so if your battery is 4 - 5 years old I'd just replace it before going to a trip. Check the battery condition visually. If you see any acid leaks, cracks or any other damage - replace the battery. Make sure the battery terminals are tight and not corroded. Corroded terminals will cause many troubles.

Other items to check under the hood

Look at the drive (serpentine) belt (in the picture), if it appears cracked or glazed, or has any other damage - replace it before a trip. Check the brake fluid, power steering fluid and make sure to top up the windshield washer reservoir with all-season windshield washer fluid. If you don't remember when last time you changed the air filter, change it now. Dirty air filter will cause lack of power and excessive fuel consumption. Look for anything irregular - leaks, loose clamps, kinked hoses, etc.

Check the tires

Check the tire pressure. Recommended pressure is indicated on the manufacturer's label, which usually located in the driver's door opening or in the glove box. Some German cars have this label in the backside of gas tank lid. You also can find it in the owner's manual. If you feel vibration at cruising speed - have your tires balanced. There is a safe limit of the tread wear. If the tire is worn below this limit, it's unsafe to drive. Refer to the result of mechanical inspection. Uneven tire wear indicates alignment problem.

Suspension and steering components

A steering and suspension of your car is something that you need to rely on in a long trip. Unfortunately, it only can be properly inspected in a repair shop. Here are just a few signs of possible problem: Having any vibration, irregular noise, knocking while driving over bumps? - Have your car inspected; there is definitely some problem.Look inside the wheel arch (look at the picture)- do all four struts (shock absorbers) appears dry? If any of them leaks oil - it should be replaced before a trip. Once it will be short on oil, the car will start bouncing like a boat and any road roughness can throw the car out of the road.Does the car "wander" from side to side at highway speed? The steering wheel is out of center? Does the car pull aside? - Check the wheel alignment. Improper wheel alignment may easily cause a car to skid at a high speed.
CV joint boots

All front wheel drive and many of four-wheel drive vehicles have CV joints (Constant Velocity joint) used to transfer the torque to the front wheels. The CV joint is greased inside and sealed by a rubber boot that unfortunately tends to break sometimes. Once it breaks, the grease comes out and the whole CV joint may become inoperative in a short period of time due to lack of lubrication. CV joint located on the internal side of each of the front wheels. You can check CV joint boots visually looking inside the front wheel arch from the front of the car with the wheel turned outside. The boot should be dry. If it's broken, you will see grease splashed all over the area. If the boot does broken, it needs to be replaced before a trip.

Lights and other electrical equipment

Check the horn, wipers and all the lights. A couple of spare bulbs (one for the headlight, one for the back) may be helpful. Replace the wipers if they don't clean the windshield perfectly. If you still have original wipers installed you may just replace wiper rubber refills which cost just a few bucks and may be purchased from a dealer. Check the windshield washer operation. Make sure your heater / air conditioner works properly. Have a broken or cracked rear view mirror? - Fix it before a trip.

Spare tire, wheel wrench and the jack

Check the spare tire pressure. If it's full-size (the same size as the others tires) spare, the pressure should be the same as in the other tires. If it's a small temporary use tire, the proper pressure is indicated on the sidewall of the tire; usually it's 50 - 60 psi. Check the owner's manual for exact data. If your car has a spare tire secured underneath make sure it can be easily removed - the mechanism may be rusted through. Check if the jack is still operable. If you have wheel locks installed, make sure you have the key and the wrench to open the wheel nuts.

Basic emergency kit for your car

A basic emergency kit for your car can include:

- Jumper wires

- Tire sealer-inflator can

- Tire gauge- Couple of rags and work glows

- Flashlight

- Simple tool kit with screwdrivers, pliers and set of most common sockets. Consider also spare headlight bulb and a couple of fuses, a bottle of engine oil, windshield washer fluid and antifreeze, emergency stop sign or flares, duct tape, electrical tape, spare ignition key etc.

Don't forget your personal emergency kit with First Aid kit and items like a blanket, a bottle of water, couple of energy bars, etc.

Car Cleaning Tips

Even the hottest car on the street looks rough when it is dirty. Here are some top cleaning tips to keep your car clean:

The following tips contain a quick (going out with parents) and showroom (car needs to look perfect) guide to cleaning your car.

Rinse & Wet the Car (with standard tap water) - DO NOT USE A SPONGE because it will pick up grit and you'll be rubbing the grit around and it'll act like sandpaper. A high pressure hose is best for this but a hosepipe with a strong jet will help. Once you have removed the loose grit and the car is wet the rest of the dirt will start to loosen as the water gets into it. (To allow time for the water to start dissolving the dirt it's a good time to clean out the inside of the car.)

Inside of the Car - Pick up crisp packets, sweet wrappers and those car park stickers. Remove removable mats and vacuum them then move on to the rest of the interior with the hoover. Wipe down the dashboard, console and all other plastic with a damp (not wet) cloth. (for soiled areas use a mild detergent but wipe off thoroughly). Avoid using products with Silicone in as they leave a greasy residue & over spray onto the pedals can be lethal. Do not polish the dashboard because this can cause glare on sunny days. Carpet & upholstery stains can be easily removed with CAR PLAN interior valet (this is the only product I have found that could remove dark engine grease stains on a light grey interior.) Finally wipe over the sills, boot/Trunk seams (the internal bits you only see when the door is open with a damp sponge.)

Back to the Outside - the car should still be wet - hose over one more time ready for the pre wash. Use a very soft sponge or soft wool mitt, and very gently wipe over the entire car the aim is to remove all grit particles. (Do not scrub tar or mud deposits at this stage) Start at the top of the car and work round it in circles like peeling an orange making the sills and bumpers the last thing you touch overall - these are generally the dirtiest and most gritty items.

Pre wash - Using a bucket of clean (for perfection use filtered) water and a car pre wash product - choose something that does not foam up or cause lots of bubbles. (Autoglym car shampoo is very good and conditions the water to avoid streaks.) Don't use a shampoo with built in polish this would effectively seal the dirt and stains under a thin layer of wax and makes the cleaning job 100 times harder and makes the windows go hazy every time you use your wipers. Use a tar and bug remover spray to soften the really stubborn stains.

Main Wash - Again with a quality car shampoo. Time to use a slightly harder sponge or cotton cleaning pad. Like last time work in circles using the orange peel method. A scrub pad can be used for really tough stains but only on areas of paint work hardened like the sills and lower front bumper. You want to avoid creating those wheel mark scratches caused mainly by bad cleaning methods or automatic car washes.

Wheels and tyres - clean off with a brush first, then use a hard sponge or scrub pad. Do not use anything you'll use to clean the wheels on your bodywork next time or it will be full of grit and scratch your paintwork. Brake dust is hard to remove and you'll usually require a chemical brake dust and alloy wheel cleaner. These usually need brushing on leaving for a while then sponging off. As fairly nasty chemicals are used in most of these products wear gloves and avoid contact with your skin.

Rinse off - Time for some fresh clean water. A watering can filled with water (again for perfection filtered) is the easiest method of rinsing off the car.

Dry the car off using a Chamois leather - They need to be slightly damp to work best and you are buffing the water into small droplets, a mist then a haze then the water is gone. Most people expect the Chamois to work like a towel and soak up the water but it works more like a wiper blade - creating a thin film of water and letting it evaporate itself. Patience is the key.

Glass - using a glass cleaning product go over the windows inside and out in a circular motion. DON'T USE HOUSE GLASS CLEANER - make sure its a proper automotive glass cleaner. This is also the time to fix the stone chips (You'll have to wait for the paint to dry before moving on to the polishing stage.) We are doing an article on stone chip removal so check back soon!

Tip: The best cloth to use on glass is a piece of Hessian which has been hot washed to remove the colour and shrunk. (Window cleaners swear by it.) It's handy to keep in the car for cold morning when the windows mist up. We also recommend the use of microfibre cloths for paintwork, chrome and other areas this leaves a streak free finish.

The polish - Generally you rub it on (in straight lines not circles) to a light haze then buff off. An electronic buffer can really cut the polishing time but be careful. IE: If you used an electric buffer to clean your face it would be quick but hurt. Car paintwork is also delicate and pressure should not be applied and only soft cloths should be used. Use one cloth to apply the polish, another to buff it off and then with a really soft cloth buff up the polish to a showroom finish. Two mist & buff off coats are far better than gobbing on as much polish as you can (the extra is just rubbed off and less shiny residue is left behind.)

The quick method - Jet wash the car down and rub it over. Add your polish to a litre of water and rub it into the paintwork only - don't do the windows. Jet wash to rinse off. Then with a fine sponge rub the car all over with clean water. Squirt your windscreen washer and set your wipers to fast. Go for a drive to dry the car off. Buff off the damp polish residue with a chamois leather and &shiny within 15 minutes. So what products do we recommend?

Autoglym - This is a very extensive range of car cleaning products and in our opinion is very good value for money. The Autoglym range is available from most good car part shops - see our shop link page for details. Meguiars Tech wax gives a superb finish on slightly scratched paint and is really easy to apply.

Interior Cleaner - Car plan interior valet - in our test was the best budget buy mass market product available and did just seem to dissolve the dirt. We recommend using a stiff brush because the included plastic brush is a little to harsh. This is available from your local car store. For the perfectionists - try Zymol Fabrique an intensive cleansing cleaner to give your car a spa day & beauty makeover.

Change for the Better - Hey Brakes!

Changes are to do much for the better, if you analyze the change is going to affect positively then don’t think much. Same applies for the vehicles.

Changing many fluids in a vehicle is always a change for the better. Dirty engine oil, transmission fluid or anti-freeze are bad news for a car.

Also don’t forget brake fluid? Many motorists know that this fluid should be topped off, but changed?

According to CarDrives brake fluid in the typical vehicle can become dirty in two years or less. This is due to the fluid absorbs moisture, which works its way through the hydraulic system. If you are driving in heavy braking conditions or hilly driving or when towing a trailer, moisture in the overheated in mountainous or hilly driving or when towing a trailer, moisture in the overheated fluid vaporizes (This is because boiling point of water is lower than that of brake fluid) and braking efficiency is reduced.

Sometimes even under normal driving conditions this happens, if the brake fluid is seriously contaminated. Not only is the fluid vulnerable to vaporizing, it also can freeze.

Brake fluid should maintain a sable viscosity throughout its operating temperature range. If it’s too thin or too thick, braking action is harmed. Beyond the vaporization hazard, moisture creates an extra dilemma for owners of vehicles equipped with anti-lock braking (ABS) systems. Rusted and corroded ABS components are very expensive to replace.

How do you know when to have fluid changed? A normal replacement every two years or 24,000 miles is recommended.

Certainly it should be included with brake pad or shoe replacement, as a preventive measure, a professional brake technician should test the condition of the fluid with an accurate fluid test safety meter, which he inserts into the master cylinder reservoir to record the fluid’s boiling point.